YEARS AGO I WENT TO a colleague’s house for a dinner party that was in its execution exactly the sort of meal that defines a Sunday supper: a collection of friends who shared superlative chicken cutlets with salad served across the top, and who then left the remnants on the table to dance the two-step in the living room. This was on a weeknight, after a busy day in the newsroom, and the meal at first seemed to be a magic trick, an exercise in defying the laws of time management. But cook this dish a few times and you’ll see. Pound out the cutlets in the morning, then cook at night. The chicken cooks quickly and holds well in a warm oven, or can be served at room temperature with no diminishment of awesome. Dress some baby greens with a spray of lemon juice and olive oil and capers, then plop some on top of each cutlet served.
2 to 2½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken cutlets
5 large eggs
2 cups panko or other unseasoned bread crumbs
1½ cups all-purpose flour
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups extra-virgin olive oil
2 lemons, cut into wedges
METHOD :
1. Prepare the chicken. Place the cutlets between pieces of plastic wrap and, with the flat side of a meat pounder, pound them until they are about ¼ inch thick. If cooking right away, heat the oven to 200°F. Otherwise, wrap the chicken in plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator until ready to do so.
2. Crack the eggs into a large bowl and whisk them together. Put the bread crumbs and flour into two separate wide, shallow dishes. Season everything—eggs, flour, bread crumbs, and chicken—with salt and pepper. Working with one cutlet at a time, dip the chicken into the flour, turning to coat and shaking off the excess. Then dip into the egg, lift out, and allow the excess to drip off. Dip the cutlet into the bread crumbs, pressing firmly to help them adhere. Place the chicken on a sheet pan, separating layers with wax paper, if necessary. You can refrigerate these for a couple hours if you have time.
3. Place a large skillet over medium-high heat and swirl into it enough of the oil to coat the bottom to a depth of roughly ¼ inch. When the oil shimmers, and a bread crumb dropped into it sizzles nicely, add 2 or 3 of the cutlets to the pan, leaving plenty of space between them. Fry the cutlets until golden brown, about 2 minutes, then turn carefully and fry the other sides until also golden and cooked through, another 2½ to 3 minutes.
4. Transfer to a baking sheet covered with paper towels to drain, then to a platter. Sprinkle with some salt and place the pan in the oven to warm. Repeat with the remaining cutlets. Serve with the lemon wedges and a salad.
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