BOSTON BAKED BEANS

RECIPES FOR BOSTON BAKED BEANS are as varied as those who make the dish and call it their own. James Beard cooked his version with ribs. Some old sharpies prefer salt pork. Mine was, for years: Crank open a can of B&M baked beans and cook it, in the can, over an open fire, for a taste of Maine that goes back more than a hundred years, a comfort food that binds generations. All those make for excellent dinners. But for years now I’ve been returning to a recipe I learned from the Rhode Island chef Steve Johnson, who goes whole hog with his beans, using pork butt to run the dish through with fat and flavor. You could easily cut back on the amount of meat or, as Beard did, use four or five pork ribs instead, nestling them into the bottom of the pot, below the beans. (I use navy beans here because they’re widely available, but if you can get your hands on some heritage pebblers from New England, some Yellow Eyes or Jacob’s Cattle, go to!) Traditionally the accompaniment for the dish is steamed Boston brown bread. I prefer crackers and cheddar. As with any bean preparation, you can pull a cup of the mixture from the pot just before serving, mash it with a fork in a bowl, and return it to the pot to increase the overall creaminess of the dish.

1 pound dried navy beans, rinsed and picked over to remove any stones

2 tablespoons neutral oil, such as canola or grapeseed

½ pound slab bacon, cut into ½-inch cubes

3 pounds boneless pork butt or shoulder, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 2-inch cubes

Kosher salt

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

2 large yellow onions, peeled and diced

4 cloves garlic, peeled and diced

1 tablespoon tomato paste

2 teaspoons dry mustard powder

2 tablespoons maple syrup

2 tablespoons molasses

2 bay leaves

1½ cups chicken stock, ideally homemade, or low-sodium if store-bought

1. Place the beans in a large bowl and cover with cold water, then allow to sit out on the countertop overnight; or if pressed for time, simmer over medium-low heat, covered, until the beans are tender, about an hour. (Or if really pressed for time, substitute three 15½-ounce cans navy beans, drained.)

2. Heat the oven to 350°F. On the stovetop, put the oil in a large casserole or Dutch oven, and turn the heat to medium-high. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the bacon and cook, stirring occasionally. When the bacon is nicely browned, add the pork, a bit at a time, and cook until nicely browned, sprinkling with salt and pepper as it cooks.

3. Add the onions and garlic and cook until they soften and begin to turn translucent, then add the tomato paste, mustard powder, maple syrup, molasses, bay leaves, and the 2 teaspoons pepper. Stir to combine, then add the drained beans and the stock. Stir and add water barely to cover the beans, then bring to a bare simmer on the stove.

4. Cover the pot and place in the oven. Cook for 2 hours, the first hour with the lid on, the second with the lid off. Check occasionally, adding a splash of water, if necessary. When the beans are creamy and cooked through, check for seasoning, adding salt,

if necessary. Remove and discard the bay leaves. Serve immediately, or keep warm in a low oven or over a low flame, or refrigerate and reheat when you’re ready to serve.